Ethical Branding: Case study of Prada-Kolhapuri Chappal Controversy

Case Study: The Prada–Kolhapuri Chappals Controversy – A Test of Ethical Branding. In 2025, global luxury fashion brand Prada launched a sandal design strikingly similar to the traditional Kolhapuri chappals of India. Initially released without attribution, the product attracted criticism for cultural appropriation and a lack of ethical sensitivity. Read here to understand the ethical aspects of the controversy.

The brand initially offered no acknowledgement of its inspiration, leading to allegations of cultural appropriation, design misappropriation, and ethical insensitivity.

In a recent development that underscores the global relevance of Indian traditional arts, the Italian fashion brand acknowledged that one of its luxury footwear designs was inspired by Kolhapuri chappals, a well-known handcrafted leather footwear originating from Maharashtra and Karnataka.

What is the Prada-Kolhapuri Chappal Controversy?

• Prada released a sandal priced at a luxury tier, bearing a significant resemblance to Kolhapuri chappals.
• The design went viral, sparking outrage on Indian social media and among cultural commentators.
• Following public pressure, Prada issued a statement acknowledging the cultural roots and artisanal significance of the design.
• The Maharashtra State Business Council moved to initiate GI protection and patent efforts for Kolhapuri chappals.
• Local artisans welcomed the attention but criticised the lack of direct engagement or benefit-sharing.

Kolhapuri Chappal: Cultural and Economic Significance

Historical Legacy:

• Kolhapuri chappals boast a rich heritage dating back over 800 years, with roots in the Maratha and Deccan tradition.
• They are emblematic of India’s intangible cultural heritage, representing indigenous design, traditional tanning techniques, and craftsmanship passed down through generations.

Artisanal Excellence:

• Crafted by hand using vegetable-tanned leather, these chappals are known for their durability, intricate designs, and regional variations (e.g., Paytaan, Kapashi).
• Their uniqueness lies in their zero-nail construction, eco-friendliness, and use of local materials.

Sustainable Livelihoods:

• The craft employs thousands of artisans, especially from marginalised and backwards rural communities in Maharashtra and Karnataka.
• Women often participate in upper leather decoration, making it a gender-inclusive livelihood activity.

Socio-Economic Impact:

• Kolhapuri chappals support village-level economies, preserve traditional knowledge systems, and serve as a source of income diversification in agrarian households.
• The trade encourages local entrepreneurship, supports micro-enterprises, and contributes to rural resilience.

Symbol of Cultural Identity:

• Beyond commerce, Kolhapuris are worn with pride during festivals and cultural events.
• They symbolise local pride, craftsmanship, and self-reliance-aligning with the ideals of “Vocal for Local” and Aatmanirbhar Bharat.

Ethical Branding: Dimensions involved

Cultural Appropriation vs. Cultural Appreciation

• Appropriation: Use of cultural symbols without permission or acknowledgement.
• Appreciation: Respectful collaboration with the originators and benefit-sharing.

Intellectual Property and Traditional Knowledge

• The case underlines the ethical importance of protecting indigenous designs through GI tags, patents, and copyrights.

Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR)

• Ethical branding requires companies to go beyond profit-making and acknowledge their social and cultural responsibilities.

Transparency and Accountability

• Prada’s delayed acknowledgement shows the need for transparent sourcing and design inspiration disclosures.

Stakeholders in the controversy

• Prada – Global reputation and ethical business conduct.
• Indian artisans – Recognition, livelihood, and cultural identity.
• Consumers – Expectations of transparency and ethical sourcing.
• Government – Role in protecting traditional knowledge (GI tags).
• Society at large – Cultural respect and preservation.

Lessons for Ethical Branding

• Recognition is not enough; there must be reciprocity and engagement.
• Ethical branding is about respecting heritage and creating shared value.
• Brands must adopt pre-emptive ethical due diligence in design and sourcing.
• Cultural sensitivity should be embedded in global product strategies.

Values involved

 Way Forward

1. Ethical Collaboration: Global brands must collaborate with artisans, not just draw inspiration.
2. Benefit Sharing: Royalties, partnerships, or joint marketing initiatives with artisan groups.
3. Strengthen GI and IP Protection: Ensure traditional crafts are legally protected from exploitation.
4. Policy and Advocacy: Governments and civil society must facilitate ethical supply chains.
5. Consumer Awareness: Encourage ethical consumerism, buying products that respect heritage and support artisans.

Conclusion

This case highlights how ethical branding must extend beyond profit and aesthetics to encompass dignity, fairness, and cultural respect.

As societies become more interconnected, ethical globalisation must ensure that the local is not exploited in the name of the global.

The Prada-Kolhapuri episode serves as a reminder of the global appeal of Indian crafts and the urgent need to protect and empower the hands that preserve them.

Recognition is a beginning, but true cultural appreciation lies in inclusivity, respect, and collaboration that uplifts artisan communities.

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